Lining Calculator
Select your garment type and enter your outer fabric yardage — get the lining yardage, which pieces to line, ease adjustments, hem treatment, and step-by-step instructions.
Garment type
How much outer fabric does your pattern require?
Lining for Dress
2m · 85% of outer yardage
Pieces to line
Front bodice lining
Cut 1/8" smaller at bust than outer front
Back bodice lining
Cut 1/8" smaller at bust than outer back
Front skirt lining
Cut 1/8" smaller at hip than outer front
Back skirt lining
Cut 1/8" smaller at hip than outer back
Hem treatment
Free-hanging, shorter
Cut the skirt lining 1" shorter than the outer skirt. The bodice lining is sewn to the waist seam. The skirt lining hangs free and is hemmed separately.
Step-by-step
- 1Trace each outer pattern piece that needs lining: Front bodice lining, Back bodice lining, Front skirt lining, Back skirt lining.
- 2Reduce the lining pieces by 1/8" at the bust and/or hip seamlines. This ensures the lining sits smoothly inside the garment without pushing the outer fabric out.
- 3Cut the lining 1" shorter than the outer garment. Cut the skirt lining 1" shorter than the outer skirt. The bodice lining is sewn to the waist seam. The skirt lining hangs free and is hemmed separately.
- 4Transfer all darts, notches, and grainlines from the outer pattern to the lining pieces. Lining darts should match the outer darts exactly.
- 5Cut lining on the same grain as the outer fabric. Lining has a right and wrong side — many linings have a shiny face.
- 6Sew the lining pieces together. Attach to the outer garment at the neckline and armholes (or neckline and waist seam). The lining and outer share the same closures (zip/zipper, buttons).
Lining vs. underlining
Lining is a separate layer sewn as its own garment and attached at key seams (neckline, armholes, waist, hem). It moves independently from the outer fabric, which gives the garment a clean interior finish and makes it easy to slip on and off.
Underlining (also called mounting) is a layer of fabric cut identically to each outer piece and basted (tacked) to the wrong side before construction. The two layers are then treated as one throughout construction. Underlining adds body, prevents show-through, and supports lightweight or loosely woven fabrics.
Use lining when you want a clean finish and comfortable wearing. Use underlining when the outer fabric needs structural support. Some garments use both — an underlined outer with a separate lining on top.
Choosing lining fabric by garment type
Bodices and dresses: Lightweight cotton voile, batiste, or silk habotai. For structured dresses, cotton lawn or poly-cotton blends work well. Match the breathability to the outer fabric.
Skirts: Anti-static polyester lining (like Bemberg rayon) prevents clinging. For cotton skirts, a cotton batiste lining is comfortable in warm weather.
Jackets and coats:Bemberg (cupro) rayon is the gold standard — it's smooth, breathable, anti-static, and durable. Silk charmeuse is luxurious but less durable. Polyester satin is budget-friendly but less breathable.
Pants: Lightweight polyester or Bemberg rayon for the front and back from waist to knee. A slippery lining helps pants slide on easily and prevents baggy knees.
Cutting lining
Trace your outer pattern pieces, then make the lining-specific adjustments: reduce by 1/8" at bust and hip seams (the lining should be slightly smaller so it doesn't push the outer fabric out), and shorten the hem by 1" (so the lining doesn't peek out).
Cut the lining on the same grainas the outer fabric. Transfer all darts, notches, and grainlines. Lining darts should match the outer darts exactly — they're doing the same shaping work.
For jackets, add a 1" pleat at center back of the lining for movement ease. This pleat runs from the neckline to the hem and opens when you reach forward, preventing the lining from straining.